How card grading works — and how to pre-grade before you submit
Every grading company scores the same four things. Learn what they look at, which cards are actually worth the fee, and how to check a card yourself in seconds — for sports, Pokémon and every other type of card.
The four sub-grades
Centering
Measured as left/right and top/bottom border ratios. 50/50 is perfect; 60/40 usually still grades 9, and anything past 70/30 caps most cards at 7 or lower.
Corners
Checked for softness, fraying and whitening under magnification. A single dinged corner is the most common reason a modern card misses a 10.
Edges
Chipping and whitening along the borders, most visible on dark-bordered sets and foil TCG cards straight from the pack.
Surface
Print lines, scratches, gloss loss, indentations and staining. Angle-dependent defects need good lighting to be caught in a scan.
The final grade is capped by the weakest sub-grade, which is why one soft corner can pull an otherwise flawless card down several points.
Pre-grade in three steps
- 1. Photograph both sides. Flat surface, even side lighting, no glare, whole card in frame.
- 2. Scan. The back is read for the factual identification — year, manufacturer, set and card number — and the front for the variation, parallel, holo or rookie markers.
- 3. Read the report. You get centering measurements, per-corner and per-edge notes, surface defects and an overall 1-10 estimate with a submit-or-hold recommendation.
Common questions
How does card grading work?
A grader inspects four things on every card: centering (how evenly the image sits inside the borders), corners, edges and surface. Each is scored, and the lowest sub-score caps the final grade on a 1-10 scale. HSA Card Grade Pro runs the same four checks with computer vision so you see the likely outcome before you pay a grading company.
What cards are worth grading?
Grading pays off when the graded price is meaningfully higher than the raw price plus grading and shipping costs. That usually means rookies, key parallels, low-population inserts, vintage stars, and modern Pokémon or Magic chase cards that look near-mint to the eye. Pre-grade first: a card that scans below 8 rarely returns the fee.
How much does card grading cost?
Third-party grading typically runs from roughly $15 to $30 per card at standard service levels, plus shipping both ways and insurance, with express tiers costing more. Pre-grading with HSA is free for your first 5 scans each month, so you only send in the cards that are likely to grade well.
How accurate is an AI pre-grade?
A pre-grade is an estimate, not a slab. It reads centering measurements and visible corner, edge and surface defects from your photos, and it is only as good as the photos: shoot both sides flat, in even light, with no glare and the whole card in frame.
Can it grade Pokémon and other TCG cards?
Yes. The scanner identifies sports cards (baseball, basketball, football, hockey, soccer, racing) and TCG and non-sports cards including Pokémon, Magic: The Gathering, Yu-Gi-Oh!, Lorcana and One Piece, reading the back for the factual identification and the front for holo, first edition and other variation markers.
How should I photograph a card before scanning?
Lay the card on a flat, dark, non-reflective surface, fill the frame, use diffuse light from the side rather than a direct flash, and take the front and the back separately. Remove the card from a glossy sleeve if it causes glare.
Related guides
Choosing a grading service
How to pick the right service for sports, Pokémon and vintage.
What makes a card grade a 10?
The centering, corner, edge and surface standards for a Gem Mint.
How much does grading cost?
Per-card fees, shipping and insurance — and how to screen winners.
Is it worth grading Pokémon cards?
When grading pays off and the grade you need for value.
How to clean cards before grading
Safe cleaning steps that won't lower the grade.
Pre-grade your first card free
Five scans every month on the free plan — sports, TCG and non-sports cards.